Projects

AVR ATmega328P Project Board – Part 3 – PCB Parts Fine Tuning Placement

Okay, quick followup post looking at the fine tuning the placement of parts on the 50x50mm PCB board. We continue where we left off last, in part 2. Time Table of Contents 00:00 – Intro 00:09 – Start adjusting placement of ICSP, Reset Switch, and LED 00:58 – Adjust ADC/I2C Header Placement 02:48 – Adjust GPIO Header Placement 03:29 – Adjust XTAL and capacitors 03:55 – Adjust decoupling capacitors 04:57 – Tweaking and adjusting of ICSP, Reset Button, and LED 05:45 – Fine tune placement of headers with Information tool 06:11 – Move ICSP and reset button away from edge of the board 06:55 – Adding copyright marking on the board 07:53 – More fine tuning placements with Information tool. 08:35 – Credits Roll

AVR ATMEGA328P Project Board – Part 2 – PCB Roughing

Welcome to part 2 of the series. In this video, we actually reference the building out of a blank 50x50mm rounded corner board with M3 hole mounts. Since I already had a video like that posted up, I didn’t want to use up too much time to duplicate content. Folks who want to check it out can do so. Rough Placement So the TLDR; of this video segment is that we place parts on the board roughly where we want them to be. Ie, We might want the MCU in the middle of the board so it’s easy to route to it from anywhere? We want the headers for Serial, I2C, GPIO, and ADC to be on the outer edge, where it will be easier to access. We…
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AVR ATmega328P Project Board Schematic Creation

So this video runs a bit long, over 40 minutes. I would have broken it up or montaged it, but I wanted to be able to provide information with the option of skipping ahead. This is a beginning to end video of the schematic for the ATmega328P board being created in Autodesk Eagle PCB Design software. All of the parts used in the design are through hole parts and the resources used are listed below. Information From Video Posting So this video runs a bit long, over 40 minutes. I would have broken it up or montaged it, but I wanted to be able to provide information with the option of skipping ahead. This is a beginning to end video of the schematic for the ATmega328P board being…
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Testing Out Some FriendlyElec Nano Pi M4 Boards (Part I)

Nano Pi M4 With Corsair AF120 fan on top of heatsinks Side View

What I’ve Been Using Previously So, I’ve been primarily using development boards produced by the folks at Raspberry Pi, big fan of their Pi 3B(s), though I bemoan their lack of support for USB3.0 🙁 I’ve also been using boards from the BeagleBone folks, primarily their Black boards. I like their high GPIO count as well as access to the two PRU sub-processors. Though I’m not a big fan of the alternate ASM needed for it and also… the lack of USB3.0 🙁 I realize that there is a Beaglebone X15 board, which DOES have the SuperSpeed USB3, but it’s a whole other kind of beast… more geared towards desktop computing or larger projects than the kind used by the smaller boards. It’s also quite a bit pricier….
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Aluminum Extrusion Frame For The win

With the exception of 3d printer kits I’ve bought, all of my DIY projects have employed aluminum extrusions. Specifically, t-slot aluminum extrusions sourced from Misumi USA. Misumi HFS-15 For Past Projects In previous projects, I used their HFS15, or their 15mm profile aluminum extrusion. Their 15mm profile aluminum extrusion is a great choice for small projects for a number of reasons: M3 bolt pairs well with it, M3 low profile square and hex nuts work well as t-slot nuts. The extrusion is VERY inexpensive. Misumi USA will cut the aluminum extrusion to length and will even handle drilling various holes as required. Misumi Series-5 20mm Profile Aluminum Extrusion It’s amazing what 5mm in each direction will do for the rigidity of the aluminum extrusion. In addition, with the…
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Starting Build of UV/LCD Resin 3D Printer

Wing's 3D Resin Printer Mockup

Starting Build of UV/LCD Resin 3D Printer Over the last few years, I’ve been assembling 3d printers, modding 3d printers, and then started designing and building my own 3d printers from scratch. These have all been FDM(Filament Deposition Modeling) printers. This build is my first resin printer. I had originally considered buying one from FormLabs or Monoprice, but thought it would be more fun to build my own from scratch. Common Design Traits of Liquid Resin Printers So design does not happen in a vacuum. I’ve looked at the designs of the various resin printers out there, and mechanically, they are significantly simpler than any FDM printer, in that there are quite a few less electro-mechanical moving parts, consisting mainly of a single axis of motion in the…
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Considering Switching To Liquid Resin 3D Printing

Recently, I’ve been pre-occupied with a few other things in life and my “home office” has been less “office” and more “storage corner” for all of my halted projects. After some thought, I realized that I no longer wanted to do 3d printing with a filament based printer, but that I wanted to go for a liquid resin light cured printer. The reasoning is as follows, or the cons of PLA/ABS filament printing: Hot ends and heated beds = potential for fire hazard. Let’s face it, while the design of printers have more or less stabilized, the safety aspects remain more or less the way they have been since around the start. I generally don’t feel safe leaving the printer to operate on it’s own, unattended, and feel…
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Some Tech Things For The August 21st 2017 Solar Eclipse

So I went with my family up to Oregon for the total solar eclipse on August 21st, 2017. We stayed in Lincoln City, OR and had a long drive up and down… but that’s really interesting from a tech/maker perspective. What is potentially interesting is what little things I did and brought along for the experience. Shot of Totality Eclipse Video of the totality event Solar Filters… Oops and Mad Dash to Fix! We needed solar filters for our eyes and for our cameras. We had originally bought some cool looking welder’s goggles and a visor for the event thinking that it would be sufficient. We found out a few days before we headed out that apparently, shade #4 and shade #5 were nowhere near enough for protection!…
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Board & Bolt Tripod Platform

Wing Designed Board Pod For Camera

Everyone gets inspiration from something and I had recently seen the Platypod Kickstarter project. I was kinda inspired by their design and was about to back it when I wondered if I would actually use it… So, firing up Adobe Illustrator, downloading a Ponoko template, referencing some typical hex nut dimensions, I got to work designing a quick bolt platform like the one they had to see how much I would use something like it. Also… I just wanted to make something. 🙂 I think I made something that was pretty cool, but it’s been months and I have not used it for photography nearly as much as I thought I would. So I’m glad I didn’t go down the Platypod route. Not that it’s not a great…
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ESP8266 Pogo Pin Programming Jig

Wing Pogo Pin ESP8266 Programming Jig

So, at some point in time, I was going to program a bunch of ESP8266 modules for resale with some custom code. Going through that experience has taught me to do more analysis before jumping in with payment in hand. 🙂 One of the things I did to try to make the process more tolerable was a programming jig for ESP8266 modules. I happened to have purchased a whole bunch of D1 Mini style modules where the ESP8266 modules sat on a small programming carrier board. It occurred to me that I could reuse the carrier board as a programming rig, and just program the ESP8266 modules themselves… if I had some kind of pogo pin jig. Notes: Circuit and PCB designed in Autodesk Eagle Circuit board manufactured…
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