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Marie Kondo’ing The Ol’Tech Corner

Lots of ESP8266

Been doing some cleaning of the ol’Tech Corner this weekend. Been reading Marie Kondo’s books(The Life-Changing Manga of Tidying Up: A Magical Story (The Life Changing Magic of Tidying Up, for instance.) on tidying up. Anyone’s who’s gotten a good look at my tech corner can tell you it’s a bit like am old electronics shop. You know the one with the aisles and aisles of just “stuff” yeah. So while I can’t/won’t go and drag everything of one kind out… there are literally thousands of kinds of things in there… I did set a sort of cutoff based on my prevailing interests, recent frustrations, and just YOLO/TLDR; aspects of life. Smaller Than 1206? Out! Any part smaller than 1206 is out. 0805? nope. Out. Those tiny ant-like…
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AVR ATmega328P Project Board – Part 3 – PCB Parts Fine Tuning Placement

Okay, quick followup post looking at the fine tuning the placement of parts on the 50x50mm PCB board. We continue where we left off last, in part 2. Time Table of Contents 00:00 – Intro 00:09 – Start adjusting placement of ICSP, Reset Switch, and LED 00:58 – Adjust ADC/I2C Header Placement 02:48 – Adjust GPIO Header Placement 03:29 – Adjust XTAL and capacitors 03:55 – Adjust decoupling capacitors 04:57 – Tweaking and adjusting of ICSP, Reset Button, and LED 05:45 – Fine tune placement of headers with Information tool 06:11 – Move ICSP and reset button away from edge of the board 06:55 – Adding copyright marking on the board 07:53 – More fine tuning placements with Information tool. 08:35 – Credits Roll

AVR ATMEGA328P Project Board – Part 2 – PCB Roughing

Welcome to part 2 of the series. In this video, we actually reference the building out of a blank 50x50mm rounded corner board with M3 hole mounts. Since I already had a video like that posted up, I didn’t want to use up too much time to duplicate content. Folks who want to check it out can do so. Rough Placement So the TLDR; of this video segment is that we place parts on the board roughly where we want them to be. Ie, We might want the MCU in the middle of the board so it’s easy to route to it from anywhere? We want the headers for Serial, I2C, GPIO, and ADC to be on the outer edge, where it will be easier to access. We…
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AVR ATmega328P Project Board Schematic Creation

So this video runs a bit long, over 40 minutes. I would have broken it up or montaged it, but I wanted to be able to provide information with the option of skipping ahead. This is a beginning to end video of the schematic for the ATmega328P board being created in Autodesk Eagle PCB Design software. All of the parts used in the design are through hole parts and the resources used are listed below. Information From Video Posting So this video runs a bit long, over 40 minutes. I would have broken it up or montaged it, but I wanted to be able to provide information with the option of skipping ahead. This is a beginning to end video of the schematic for the ATmega328P board being…
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Creating M3 Mount Hole for Eagle Library

Welcome to Wing Tech Corner. I recently posted a video detailing how to create an M3 mounting hole component for the Eagle PCB Design software’s library. You can use the embedded video above to go check out the video, which demonstrates how to create the part from scratch. You can also check out the github repository, where the library and the part in question as well as any future parts, will be published/made available: Github Repository: Let’s Create! So fire up your copy of Eagle PCB Design and in the main navigation window, head to the top and expand the “Library” folder. In there, you can create a new folder for your new library files or just store your library file in the Library folder. At the…
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Creating Quick and Easy Rounded Corners In Autodesk Eagle PCB Design

Been designing and building PCB(s) for projects I’ve been working on. I found that while the perfect right angle corners of a PCB board had a certain cache… I really liked the organic feel of rounded corner PCB(s). Youtube Video Demonstrating How To Create Rounded Corner PCB(s) in Eagle PCB Design The fastest way to do this is with the ARC tool in Eagle. However, in order for it to work, you need the end points of the ARC to match with another line/endpoint sufficiently closely for Eagle to recognize that they should be joined and for new segments to be created. The fastest way to do this is ensure that your endpoints all end up on the same aligned grid by using Eagle’s Grid Size feature. Steps…
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Nano Pi M4 SBC Board Review : Part II

So this is a continuation of my first post, where I encountered a good deal of stability issues with the Nano Pi M4 boards I had acquired: New Setups & New Results So I changed up some things after employing a USB power meter to determine what the boards were pulling: Ensure that the AC->USB power adapter provided slightly more than 5.0V and provided a stable and solid 2A. The board pulls between 600-900mA at any given point in time… but I strongly suspect that there are periodic, brief transient, current spikes that exceeds the response speed of the power supply. Ensure that if I am doing anything more than just an idling OS install, I should have a small fan providing active air currents. Devices Tried:…
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Testing Out Some FriendlyElec Nano Pi M4 Boards (Part I)

Nano Pi M4 With Corsair AF120 fan on top of heatsinks Side View

What I’ve Been Using Previously So, I’ve been primarily using development boards produced by the folks at Raspberry Pi, big fan of their Pi 3B(s), though I bemoan their lack of support for USB3.0 🙁 I’ve also been using boards from the BeagleBone folks, primarily their Black boards. I like their high GPIO count as well as access to the two PRU sub-processors. Though I’m not a big fan of the alternate ASM needed for it and also… the lack of USB3.0 🙁 I realize that there is a Beaglebone X15 board, which DOES have the SuperSpeed USB3, but it’s a whole other kind of beast… more geared towards desktop computing or larger projects than the kind used by the smaller boards. It’s also quite a bit pricier….
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Aluminum Extrusion Frame For The win

With the exception of 3d printer kits I’ve bought, all of my DIY projects have employed aluminum extrusions. Specifically, t-slot aluminum extrusions sourced from Misumi USA. Misumi HFS-15 For Past Projects In previous projects, I used their HFS15, or their 15mm profile aluminum extrusion. Their 15mm profile aluminum extrusion is a great choice for small projects for a number of reasons: M3 bolt pairs well with it, M3 low profile square and hex nuts work well as t-slot nuts. The extrusion is VERY inexpensive. Misumi USA will cut the aluminum extrusion to length and will even handle drilling various holes as required. Misumi Series-5 20mm Profile Aluminum Extrusion It’s amazing what 5mm in each direction will do for the rigidity of the aluminum extrusion. In addition, with the…
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Starting Build of UV/LCD Resin 3D Printer

Wing's 3D Resin Printer Mockup

Starting Build of UV/LCD Resin 3D Printer Over the last few years, I’ve been assembling 3d printers, modding 3d printers, and then started designing and building my own 3d printers from scratch. These have all been FDM(Filament Deposition Modeling) printers. This build is my first resin printer. I had originally considered buying one from FormLabs or Monoprice, but thought it would be more fun to build my own from scratch. Common Design Traits of Liquid Resin Printers So design does not happen in a vacuum. I’ve looked at the designs of the various resin printers out there, and mechanically, they are significantly simpler than any FDM printer, in that there are quite a few less electro-mechanical moving parts, consisting mainly of a single axis of motion in the…
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